Frequently Asked Questions
IMPORTANT: Before reading this page, please read and understand the turbophile.com disclaimer.
Since the site is becoming more popular lately I have been getting quite a few e-mails asking about various things, so I thought I'd start up this page which hopefully might answer a few of the more common questions!
Index
Q. What do I need to do to fit a CA18DET into a Datsun 1600?
Q. I am thinking of buying a Datsun 1600 - which year model is best and what are the differences?
Q. Did you need to get the car engineered, and if so who can do it and how much did it cost?
Q. What turbos can I bolt onto the standard CA18DET exhaust manifold for more power?
Q. What do I need to modify to fit a CA18DET into a Datsun 1600?
The CA18DET into 1600 conversion is basically the same as an SR20DET one in that you are fitting a forward facing sump motor with a longer footprint from fanbelt to tailshaft. Modifications are as follows:
- reverse and slot the engine crossmember
- make up a custom gearbox crossmember
- you can use the standard 1600 rubber and metal engine mounts, but the metal brackets that bolt onto the block need to be modified to reach
- custom shortened (and balanced) tailshaft
- reverse bend steering link to clear the gearbox
- the gearstick sits a lot further back than an L-series one, so if you are fitting the motor to a manual shell you need to cut the hole out further back then weld a plate over the old hole, auto shells are good for this becasue you can just cut the hole for the gearstick wherever you like
Then there's all the intercooler piping, wiring, fuel system and general stuffing around, not to mention the upgrades you have to do to the rest of the car (driveline, brakes, suspension) to cope with the extra power.
Fitting kits are a trouble-free way of fitting the motor and gearbox right the first time, and can be purchased from:
MadDat
Motorsports
Cam
McKinnon
Datsport
Q. What's the difference between 'bar and plate' and 'tube and fin' style intercoolers and which is better?
Tube and fin intercoolers have curved-edged air galleries which makes the overall capacity less, but offer less resistance to air as it passes through the intercooler to cool the compressed air inside.
Bar and plate intercoolers have more rectangular air galleries which allows a higher volume of compressed air to pass through the intercooler, but because the edges are not as aerodynamic, there is more resistance to cooling airflow passing through the core.
I'm not sure that one design is better than the other, I think its more a case of getting one to suit the application.
Where the 'cooler is mounted in a position where there's very little obstruction to air flow in front of it, the bar and plate would probably be a better choice as it can flow more compressed air. But if the intercooler is in a position where the airflow is not as constant (ie. behind a bumper or number plate), a tube and fin one might be the more sensible option because though it flows less compressed air, it offers less resistance to the cooling airflow going through it.
I guess it's all a matter of finding a balance between the volume of compressed air flowing inside the intercooler and how much external cooling air can flow through it.
Q. I am thinking of buying a Datsun 1600 - which year model is best and what are the differences?
Datsun 1600s were sold in Australia from 1968 to 1973 and as a general rule the later model ones are in the best nick if they have been kept somewhat standard. If you are buying a modifed 1600 though you might get one that has been fixed up body wise and could still be an earlier model, so it shouldnt matter. The '68 had a different grille, smaller back lights, converging wipers and a flatter style dash. The '69 had the new grille, parallel wipers and larger back lights but still the old dash. '70 onwards have the later dash with individual holes for the gauges. I'm not sure what mechanical differences there may have been between the models. Oh and dont forget the 4-door wagon shape too, harder to find and with a live rear axel but lots of potential for traction over the independent rear end of the sedan.
Whatever year model or body shape you choose, go over it VERY thorougly first and check for rust - the most common areas are at the bottom of the panels (doors, guards), in the boot, around the windscreen seals and along the sills, and also seams in the engine bay. It would be better to buy a car that has a good body but less mechanical mods as rust is always hard to eliminate completely.
Q. Did you need to get the car engineered, and if so who can do it and how much did it cost?
The Queensland Transport laws state that any modifications done to a vehicle must be approved by an 'Approved Person', who is basically an engineer that has been approved by the D.O.T. He/she has the right to judge whether the modifications have been carried out correctly, and if the car is approved they write you out a modification certificate and a blue modification plate to be attached in a prominent position in the engine bay.
Any change of engine numbers then need to be provided to the D.O.T. along with the mod plate number.
Q. What turbos can I bolt onto the standard CA18DET exhaust manifold for more power?
For a cheap solution your best bet would be a T28 off an S14 Silvia/200SX. While these are non-ballbearing turbos, they are quite a bit bigger than the standard T25 on the CA18. Expect to pay $400 up to about $600 for one of these. Another cheap alternative is a T25g from an S13 Silvia, these are a bit smaller but would still be a decent upgrade and are readily available due to all the S13 owners upgrading to bb T28's! If you have a bit more to spend you could try and get hold of a ballbearing T28 off an S15 Silvia/200SX, they go for around $1000 but are sometimes difficult to find due to their newness.
Another idea if you have the money is basically any other GT28/GT25 turbo that advertises as being a bolt on job to either a SR20 or CA18 exhaust manifold.
Please note that 'bolt on' (a misleading term really) mostly does not mean that you can just replace the turbo and bolt everything up and drive away, is most cases you will need to do some type of stuffing around to get it all working. In the case of the T25 > T28 (s14) swap, you need to either grind a little bit out of the exhaust manifold or use some sort of spacer to allow for the larger compressor housing of the T28. The oil lines also need to be modified (heated up and bent, then additional length added to the flexible line), and one of the holes in the flange doesn't quite line up, it needs to be slotted slightly. There are all small jobs that, when the job is complete, get forgotten easily!
Q. I can't decide between two motors for a transplant into my 1600 - the SR20DET and the CA18DET. Which is the better motor, what are the advantages/disadvantages of each and which swap is easier?
What follows are some discussions taken directly from the SR20 Transplants Yahoo! group..
"If you are after max bang for your buck you might want to consider the CA18DET. I reckon these are a much underrated engine - not as old as the FJ, HEAPS cheaper than an SR, good engine management, lighter than FJ and much smaller than the SR or the FJ - (both very relevant points when talking engine conversions), belt driven cams (way to go! IMHO definitely a better thing than the chain drive of the SR), direct valve actuation - but with hydraulic lash adjusters under the buckets (nice and quiet) and distributorless ignition. Turbo is a bit small, but the SR turbos bolt straight on. The ECU is also easier to re-program if you were to use the factory system.
"For what it's worth I reckon the CA is a great engine. But the power delivery is quite different. I found that the CA tends to be a bit whimpy down low compared to the SR. But once they get going they REALLY like to rev. If you are the type of person that gets off on revving an engine hard all the time then the CA is for you.
"Fact, I've done many dozens of flat chat (race) laps at Sandown, Calder and Winton in my internally stock SR20DET and so has my good mate with his internally stock CA18DET both engines crammed with stacks of additional boost. Not even a backfire, let alone a major problem with either the CA or SR. Track time will bring out problems quicker than anything you'll do on the road. You're talking sometimes a difference in price of 100% between an CA18DET and SR20DET.
"But the bottom line is that the CA can be had cheap. I've seen complete packages for $1750. This is great if you intend leaving it close to standard. If you want to go mad with aftermarket injection, bigger injectors, custom manifold and a T3/T4 then you'd probably end up spending a shitload whether you got the SR or CA. And either engine will take it. Just look at Andrew Dennis's 1200 coupe.
"You can buy a SR20DET and spend whatever you like upgrading the turbo etc... Say $2500 for the SR, $2000 on a nice turbo, + all the other bits and pieces. Or you could buy a CA18DET $1400, upgrade with the same turbo package, $2000. And end up with a very potent engine. Both are tough as.
"I think the bottom line is that anything will make big horsepower if you throw enough money at it! It's just a matter of choosing something that makes the most (and best delivered) horsepower for minimal $."
Q. What are some good second hand intercoolers that will fit in my 1600 without too much cutting and how much could I expect to pay for them?
You could try any of the following:
- Mitsubishi VR4 (about $400 - $500)
- Mitsubishi Evo (about $600)
- Nissan Pulsar GTi-R (about $500)
- Toyota Supra (about $300 - $400)
- various Volvo intercoolers
The best thing to do is to go to some Jap wreckers and measure up any that look about the right size, then go home and check to see if it will fit. Another idea (if you have enough money) is to get one custom made from somewhere like Mick's Metalcraft, ARE or Mr Enforcer engineering. This way you can be sure that you are getting exactly what you need and that it will fit perfectly.
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